Ash Street Cellar – Bastille Day Special, Sydney

Tasted by Phillip Nom / July 26, 2010

Bastille Day to the French is like Independence Day to Americans. But Bastille Day to Mr Nom means French Food! Viva la France! And when Merivale was offering a classic French menu at Ash Street Cellar along with French wines selected by Merivale’s Head Sommelier, all that can be said is “oui, oui, oui!” The fixed menu with matching wines came to $120 ($75 + $45) but some concern was voiced on whether four courses was “enough”. Clearly a sign that we live a very difficult life in the world of tasting menus and 10-course degustation’s.

There is a real Melbourne laneway charm to Ash Street in how it blends in with the rest of the Ivy complex. Tables along the alley provide a perfect spot to people watch and watch time pass by without being a part of madness that goes on upstairs. Two long dining tables running across the width of the tiny restaurant connecting the bar and kitchen on either end were brimming with diners. What really surprised me was the size of the kitchen as I’ve seen household kitchens bigger than this one. Somehow with only 4 people on board, they can still pump out some serious dishes.

Diners were packed shoulder-to-shoulder along the tables for the special event so a bit of contortionism was required to squeeze past the tightly packed chairs to go the bathroom during service. Intimacy issues aside, the communal dining experience was actually a refreshing change from the sometimes clinical silver spoon service we may become used to. We sat near a bunch of folks who had a real interest in food and exchanged foodie experiences both in Sydney and overseas. One chap had the privilege to visit my dream dining destination, The Fat Duck. It was reassuring that it lived up to the hype but alas, we are merely on George Street tonight.

Pork rillette with cornichons and current relish

A glass of the 2007 Chateau Moncontour Vouray Brut Loire Valley set the scene and celebration vibe on arrival. Canapes started with pork rillettes which had a lovely interplay and balance of flavours: sweet currents, tangy cornichons and salty pork spread. The pork is cooked in fat and shredded almost to a pate consistency (but not quite there) going well with the crunchy baguette base.

French onion soup with poached quail egg and shaved raclette cheese

Nothing crushes the winter chill quite like a hearty French Onion Soup. Having made it myself, it’s always interesting how a restaurant would fare and I was pleased to see it on the menu. A spoonful of the golden brown broth unveiled a deceptively lighter onion soup which leans more on the sweet side deriving from the caramelised onions. Perhaps my version has far too much salt, but who am I to argue against a chef? Extra baguette slices proved useful mopping up remnants in the soup bowl as you sip away on the 2008 Chateau de Boucasse Pacherenc du Vic Bilh. I’m no wine expert to decipher the varietal, but I remember it being a decent drop.

Duck confit with fresh grapes and glazed baby carrots, Potato gratin, Winter leaf salad

The main dish continues on the classic French journey with none other than Duck Confit. I’ve had a few duck confit’s but this is by far the best which is quite impressive for a tapas bar moonlighting as a Frenchie just for a night. The duck was absolutely perfect: succulent, bursting with flavour and slight crispiness in the skin from cooking in its own fat. The accompanying sides of sweet glazed baby carrots and creamy potato gratin could not be faulted either and together with the duck made for pleasure on a plate. Oh there was a winter leaf salad served separately as well, but I had too much fun with what was in front of me until it was scooped onto my plate as a friendly reminder to enjoy token ‘greens’. The main came with a glass of the Gros Frere et Soeur Hautes Cotes de Nuits wine: was a classic pairing of pinot noir and duck. I didn’t enjoy the wine on its own, but it was very drinkable with the rich main course.

As I glance over to the tiny kitchen, I notice the head chef (Lauren Murdoch) holding her camera phone and snapping some pics for which I presume to be the final dessert. This was then followed by food paparazzi unveiling their cameras and SLR’s flashing the mystery course. Something special was on its way…

Chocolate Marquise with candied hazelnuts and cinnamon cream

As it was unveiled, you can understand the fuss it caused in the kitchen. A generously sized dark chocolate mousse cake was studded with nuts and topped with a quenelle of cinnamon cream stood tall like the king of Picnic chocolate bars. This dessert gave no mercy for those not prepared to face the brunt of a winter heavy hitter. If Marque was an example of a pitiful dessert, the Ash Street is on the other side of the spectrum. Sinful in its richness, it proved a challenge for even the most seasoned dessert lovers. Whilst I managed to finish it, a wheel barrow would have been handy at this point. Who said 4 courses is not enough?

So they say the best meals are those that come from the heart, and that’s what Ash St. Cellar was able to deliver without fancy gels, foams and soils that many places seem so wrapt in these days. A great thing in having an open plan kitchen is that you can see the kitchen in action. Lauren was full of smiles throughout the night and it was clear to me that she very much enjoys cooking. There is a real appreciation that food must be delicious first and foremost here and I’m all for more places like this. I would definitely return one day to nibble on their tapas menu together with a fine red, but I still long for the Duck Confit as a regular menu item. Happy Bastille Day!